Sunday, January 18, 2015

A Poem That Sums It Up!


Quark had a poem contest and the following poem (read to the cadence of "Twas the Night Before Christmas") won.  Except for a slight exaggeration about the Drake and the offensive smell of penguin poop, it is a perfect description of our trip!
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‘Twas the Week After Christmas, By Kenneth Yount

Twas the week after Christmas and people with means 
Were sailing with Quark to the southern extremes.
We left Ushuaia behind in our wake
And headed out into the troublesome Drake.

We passed Puerto Williams and rounded the Horn
And got shaken and tousled from evening ‘til morn. 
We had a Drake crossing so lively and quick
I knew in a moment I’d really be sick.

So away to my bathroom I flew with a hunch 

Tore open the shutters and threw up my lunch. 
The Drake settled down and we pleasantly felt it 
Then we saw H.O. Island, or rather we smelt it.

As we stood on our deck excitedly snooping
Six thousand penguins were busily pooping.

As our Zodiacs sped there with powerful motors 
We knew that H.O. stood for ‘horrible odors’.

Then onto the icebergs and onto Base Brown
Where we noticed the Argentines must have skipped town. 

We saw humpbacks and penguins and sheathbills and shags 
Colorful glaciers and mountains with crags.

We loved Neko Harbour, its calm crystal waters
And Lockroy, where Britain’s Union Jack flutters.

Petermann, Pleneau, Danco and Orne
Then back ‘cross the Drake and back past Cape Horn.


On board, we ate all the food we could get
From morning ‘til night... And the sun never set .

We were all fed so much that every land lubber
Packed on another ten kilos of blubber.
And fearful that if we wore gray colored clothes 
People would see us and yell ‘there she blows’.

Our Quark staff were awesome, each one was unique 

Like Jaymie who ran the Polar Boutique.
And Niki and Wolfgang and Shelli and Laurie
And John with his wonderful Shackleton story.

Vladimir, Scott and Juani and Flipper
Fabrice and Jean and Oleg the skipper.
Cam, Dave and Alex and Sharon and Simon
And one or two others whose names just aren’t rhymin’.


And all led by Shane, better known as “The Boss” 

Without whom we all would have been at a loss.
His eyes, how they twinkled, his dimples how merry 

His cheeks were like roses his nose like a cherry.
The beard on his chin was as brown as the dirt
And he always wore shorts with his Quark-issue shirt.

He took care of us all from morning ‘til night 

His burdens were heavy so ours could be light .
From first day ‘til last, and all in between 
Then he dropped us back in the Argentine.
But we heard him say (and he thought he was funny) 
“We’ll see you again when you save up more money” .

Saturday, January 17, 2015

Wrap Up


Rio has been a bucket list item for decades,  we loved seeing the sights and walking the streets.  In fact, we almost wish we had done Rio before Antarctica.   Rio is a vibrant, full-of-life city with masses of people enjoying life at the beach.  It was a total contrast to Antarctica.  Our only disappointment was that Myra and Donna were not able to hang glide as planned because the winds were blowing in the wrong direction.




Antarctica

We traveled a total of 17,752 miles.  This includes distance to and from the airport, flight miles and excursion miles.










For us, Antarctica was:
  • wild yet fearless (people and animals),
  • unforgivingly wet and cold yet since we had the luxury to have the right gear - comfortable,
  • overwhelmingly quiet yet beautiful sounds of penguins cooing, Antarctic Thunder and ice cracking,
  • white everywhere yet color everywhere – the shocking blue of the sky, the Caribbean green at the base of icebergs, the royal blue streaks in the ice and the black penguins, and
  • spectacularly beautiful and awe inspiring yet words do not do it justice.
The four of us have tried to find the words to describe the beauty of Antarctica and the experience of this trip.  We have not succeeded.  You really must see and experience it personally.

We loved everything about this magical trip and are so happy to have shared it with such special friends.





 

Monday, January 12, 2015

Our Last Day


We arranged for a late checkout and were able to relax over breakfast, shop a bit for souvenirs (Brazilian “flip-flops” – called “havaianas”) and to swim in the pool.




It was then time to start the tortuous journey home.  With late checkout, we were able to delay leaving for the airport until 4:00.  The unfortunate part was that our flight was not until 11:00 p.m.  Since we were homeless, and had all of our luggage, it sounded like the best thing to do.  We thought we could have a nice dinner at the Airport, relax, work on our blog, catch up on email and prepare for our flight.  We were not prepared for the Rio airport.  There are no nice restaurants, the electricity went out sporadically, internet service, when you could sign on, was slow and spotty (and when we did get on the power would go out), the temperature inside the terminal was 80 or above and it was not designed for people to flow freely or to hear any announcements. 

Finally, we boarded our overnight flight to Houston and proceeded to freeze – the entire 10 ½ hour flight.  Myra took both blankets and pillows and constructed a tent in an attempt to stay warm.  We survived, arrived in Houston on time and went to catch our second flight from Houston to Jacksonville.  We were in a rush to get home for Aunt Pat’s funeral on the Island at 2:00 p.m.  The flight was 25 minutes late but we were able to get home, clean ourselves up a little, change jackets and arrive at the church only 10 minutes late.

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Relaxing in Copacabana




We spent our last full day going to the beach and rooftop pool.  The beach was so crowded you could barely weave through the people.  We were offered chairs and umbrellas by the Miramar staff on the beach and enjoyed people watching and walked along the waters edge and put our toes in the water.

The current comes from Antarctica and keeps the water in Rio very cold – refreshing for summer!  However, the water was very dirty (garbage, etc.) so we went back to our rooftop pool.

After dinner we walked to the Copacabana Palace Hotel and had a cocktail outside at their pool bar - a nice way to end our evening.



Saturday, January 10, 2015

Ipanema


We started our day with a wonderful breakfast at our hotel, the Miramar on Copacabana Beach.  This is a beautiful hotel with a 12th floor pool that overlooks Copacabana Beach and the harbor.



We walked miles from Copacabana to Ipanema, shopping and enjoying the scenery.  What a difference from Antarctica.  We left a cold, unpopulated, pure and serene continent and arrived in a hot, densely populated city.  Temperatures in Antarctica hovered around 0 degrees Celsius (32 F) while Rio temperatures hovered around 35 degrees Celsius (95 F).  It was quite a contrast!


We would like to share some of our observations about Rio de Janeiro:

  • The heat – we were a bit unprepared for how hot it was in Rio – especially after coming   from Antarctica and Ushuaia. 
  • Masses – there are so many people and since this is their summer, and it is a weekend, they are all on the beach enjoying life.  They stay all day – people were still leaving the beach at 11:00 p.m.
  • Dress Code – On Sundays the street down Copacabana is closed one-way for pedestrians.  People walk the streets in thongs and speedos, with no cover-ups.

Banco Santander sponsored mini gyms along Copacabana on the beach and men would use them to do pull-ups, push-ups, etc.





Security Bars – We were surprised by the security bars surrounding all apartment Buildings.  Crime in the city is clearly an issue, yet, we felt totally safe.

Locked Stores – Some stores were locked and only let you in if you tried the door or knocked.

We had dinner at Guiseppe Grill in Lablon.  The steak was wonderful and made up for the rushed service and mediocre side dishes.

Friday, January 9, 2015

Copacabana, Christ the Redeemer and Sugar Loaf Mountain





After a short night's sleep and a great breakfast at our hotel, we took a walk down the Copacabana strip.  It was Friday morning and we were very surprised with the large amount of people on the beach.  The Copacabana strip has a very beautiful and distinct sidewalk pattern.

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In the afternoon we had a six-hour tour with a company called "Live Like a Local".  They provide English-speaking guides and take you to Corcavada (Christ the Redeemer), the Lapa Steps in Santa Teresa and Sugar Loaf Mountain. 

Corcavada, which means hunchback in Portuguese, is home to Christ the Redeemer, the huge, mountaintop statue of Jesus who is" keeping a watchful eye over the people of Rio de Janeiro".  The views of Rio from Corcovado are stunning!


The Lapa Steps in Santa Teresa consist of over 2000 tiles on 215 steps placed by the Chilean artist Jorge Selaron as a tribute to the Brazilian people.


Sugar Loaf Mountain is a peak 1,299 feet above the harbor.  It is called Sugar Loaf because of its resemblance to the shape of concentrated, refined loaf sugar.  Access to the panoramic views of the city and harbor are reached via cable cars.


The views looking down from Corcavada and Sugar Loaf are spectacular.  We accomplished, in a six-hour tour, all of the items on our "must see" list and enjoyed it thoroughly.  Rio is truly a beautiful
city.



Our beautiful day ended on a sad note.  When we returned to the hotel we learned that Myra's Aunt Pat had lost her fight with cancer earlier that evening.

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Ushuaia to Rio de Janeiro


We arrived in Ushuaia at approximately 8:00 a.m. and departed the ship just after 9:00.  This left us homeless in Ushuaia until late afternoon.  Quark took our luggage to a storage facility and we were free to roam.  We spent the morning shopping, working on the blog, catching up with family after being without internet service for ten days and taking in the sites of Argentina's portion of Patagonia.  One of the things we forgot to mention about Ushuaia was the beautiful flowers which are surprisingly colorful given that the average temperature is 42 degrees Fahrenheit.


We returned to Casimero Bigua for a wonderful lunch and then picked up our luggage and went to the airport for our flight back through Buenos Aires where we changed planes and then flew on to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.  We arrived at our hotel at 3:15 a.m. on January 9.